Helping your new Kitten settle in Your Home

Experiencing a fresh house is daunting for a small kitten. Every kitten features a unique personality; some are shy while others are confident. Whatever their character, this is often potentially a traumatic transition for kittens as they’re leaving their mothers and siblings for the primary time.

With this in mind, it’s best to settle on an area where it is often kept for the primary few weeks to regulate gradually to its new surroundings. This confinement also aids toilet training and avoids the danger of ‘accidents’ elsewhere within the house. Careful selection of the acceptable room should consider the subsequent:

Avoid an area with full-length curtains initially as a kitten will run up them and perch at the highest.

Check the space for potential hazards like fireplaces or poisonous plants and make it as safe as possible. Remember that kittens can get into very small spaces.

Make sure any hazardous substances are out of harm’s way and therefore the cupboards where they’re kept aren’t accessible by curious kittens. Cats and poisons

Remove all breakable objects from shelves and window sills and secure all cupboard doors.

Position the litter tray during a discreet corner of the space, with the food bowl within the opposite corner and therefore the water bowl far away from both the food and the tray.

Place a cardboard box on its side with a thick fleecy blanket inside so that the kitten has somewhere to cover if it feels a touch shy or insecure.

Position a padded washable cat bed in a quiet area far away from the food, water, and litter tray areas. Line with a thermal, washable fleece blanket.

Place a kitten scratching post nearby. (Prepare to exchange this with a taller one because the kitten grows.)

Have a few toys ready for playtime. Don’t leave any toys out with strings attached; only use these under supervision as kittens can easily be harmed.

You might want to get, borrow or hire a kitten pen (or large dog ‘crate’ of comparable construction). A kitten pen may be a large metal cage with a solid floor that’s normally used for kittening queens or cats after surgery that requires it to be confined. you’ll also use one which matches within the back of a car for dogs. it’s quite large with many rooms for a bed, toys, food, water, and a litter tray. Many are easily collapsible to enable the pen to be moved from room to room. it’s a useful asset once you have a replacement kitten. you’ll start with it during a quiet room and move it more into the center of activity because the kitten settles in. It gives you somewhere to place the kitten safely in the dark or once you aren’t around to observe it (the term curiosity killed the cat was a little question coined for kittens!).

The first few days

It is advisable to bring the kitten home with some bedding; this may act as a well-known object when everything else is new. The initial day should be a relaxed period of adjustment so it’s probably best for any children within the household to know that the kitten should be left alone for a short time. The kitten room should be prepared beforehand to enable the new arrival to settle in comfortably with minimum disturbance. Place the cat basket on the ground gently and open the lid; allow the kitten to explore in its own time. it’s going to be experiencing many of the room’s sights, sounds, smells, and textures for the primary time so twiddling my thumbs and permitting a period of investigation.

Offer food, water, and a freshly prepared litter tray to the kitten within the space or within the cage therefore the kitten knows it’s its den. Once the kitten has investigated and located all of them, it’s safe to go away from the space for a short time. Don’t worry if little interest is shown in food at this stage. The piece of familiar bedding is often placed inside a cardboard box or cat bed to assist the kitten feel reception. it’s going to be helpful to take care of an equivalent litter material that the kitten was wont to in its previous home during the initial period, making any changes gradually once the newcomer is settled.

Kittens need their sleep once they are young, even more so than adult cats, but in between catnaps they exhibit energetic bursts of activity. Kittens like to climb so be prepared to travel to the rescue; rising is usually easier than coming down.

Getting to know the kitten is important to enable a bond to be created so interaction should happen during the days when it feels naturally active and appears responsive. regardless of how cute a kitten looks, it should never be woken for affection or playtime. If the kitten seems receptive, play with it but don’t persevere if it seems disinterested or anxious; there are tons to require at the beginning. Don’t coax the kitten out of a hiding place; spend time within the room reading a book or watching television, for instance, rather than forcing the connection to develop. If you would like to appeal to your new kitten, spend time on the ground at the kitten level – allow relations to go individually instead of crowding into space all directly.

During the primary few days, any handling should ideally happen when the kitten initiates it. After the primary forty-eight hours, handle the kitten throughout the day for brief periods of your time, instead of providing continuous physical contact.

If you’ve got young children, allow them limited supervised contact initially to avoid the kitten being over-handled. See our information on introducing children to a replacement cat or kitten.

At this age, the kitten needs many rests so always allow the kitten to sleep uninterrupted. If you’ve got a kitten cage you’ll simply put it away for a short time so it can rest in peace. It also features a tiny stomach at this age so offering 4-6 small meals at regular intervals throughout the day will avoid any potential stomach upsets.

Don’t rush to introduce the kitten to other cats and dogs – this must be done carefully.

It’s important from day one to line the routines that you simply shall establish for the longer term. Many homeowners feel that kittens got to be on the brink of them in the dark, particularly once they first arrive, but this will set an undesirable precedent for nocturnal games and excitement and no sleep whatsoever for you! Cats are naturally active at dawn and dusk but your kitten can soon learn to regulate its sleeping patterns to suit in together with your lifestyle. There’s nothing cruel about putting a kitten to bed during a cozy, warm and secure environment (such as the kitten cage) until you wake within the morning, but the situation and sort of bed are important to make sure of a stress-free night. Any bed provided for a kitten should have high sides to stay out draughts and a coffee front for straightforward access. the liner material should be thick and thermal to stay the kitten warm.

Feeding

When you first take a kitten home feed it on an equivalent food it’s been wont to. A sudden change of diet combined with the strain of adapting to a replacement home can cause stomach upsets and diarrhea. If you would like to vary the diet, do so gradually by mixing it with the kitten’s usual food. Kittens have small stomachs and need to be fed little and sometimes, like babies. It is often very difficult to place together a homemade diet that provides all the nutrients required by growing kittens – it’s an excellent deal easier to feed an honest quality commercial kitten food and spend the time twiddling with the kitten instead! Some foods are specially formulated for kittens because they need different nutrients from the adult cat. Read and follow the feeding instructions carefully. If the food is marked ‘complete’ it contains everything the kitten must stay healthy. If it’s marked ‘complementary’ it doesn’t supply all the kitten needs and will be fed with other foods.

Kittens aged 8-12 weeks need four meals each day, 3-6 months three meals, and kittens over 6 months old, two meals. you’ll want to supply some dry food on a billboard lib basis – it depends considerably on your lifestyle, what your kitten likes and is employed to, and if you’ve got other cats within the house with certain feeding routines and habits.

Do not give your kitten cow’s milk because it can cause diarrhea. If you would like to feed milk use one that’s specially formulated for cats. Diarrhea that persists for quite 24 hours requires veterinary attention. Fresh beverages should be available at the least times.

Feeding your cat or kitten

Toilet training

Cats are very fussy about their toilet habits and kittens will usually have learned to use a litter tray by copying their mother. you’ll just get to show your new kitten where the litter tray is and place it on the tray on awakening from sleep and after meals, or when the kitten is sniffing, scratching, or starting to crouch and appears as if it’s close to going!

If you’re employing a kitten cage then you’ll place the litter tray in there, if not place the tray during a quiet accessible corner where your kitten won’t be disturbed. confirm that the litter tray isn’t right next to food and water bowls. The kitten could also be reluctant to use the litter tray if it’s too on the brink of its food. Click here for information on the way to choose and use a litter tray.

Place the kitten on the litter tray a brief time after it’s eaten or when it’s sniffing, scratching, starting to crouch, and usually showing signs of trying to find an appropriate corner to use as a restroom.

How to choose the proper litter tray, litter, and tray position for your cat

Going outside

Because of potential infection from diseases like enteritis or cat flu, your kitten shouldn’t be allowed outside until a minimum of every week after it’s finished its first course of vaccinations at about 13 – 14 weeks old (depending on the vaccine). you’ll then let it explore outside together with your supervision. Before you let it have free access outdoors, confirm you’ve had your kitten neutered (at around 4 months), that it’s fully vaccinated and has become wont to live in your house.

How to let your kitten or cat out for the primary time

Identification

Your cat must be often identified if he becomes lost or injured far away from home. Microchipping is the best sort of permanent identification and a few people like their cat to wear a collar also. When your kitten becomes older (over 6 months old) you’ll wish to fit a collar on so that he has some sort of identification or to hold a magnet or ‘key’ to an electronic cat flap – never placed on a collar only for the sake of wearing one. For a young, rapidly growing cat you’ll be got to remember to see the collar’s fit (you should be ready to get one or two fingers under the collar) and increase its size accordingly.

How to choose and fit a collar for your cat or kitten

Entertainment

Kittens are very playful. Give them an assortment of toys to keep them occupied and exercised – these needn’t be expensive – every kitten loves a cardboard box to play in. Play is additionally an honest way for you to urge to understand and trust one another. Provide your kitten with a scratching post.

Playing with your cat

Grooming

It is an honest idea to accustom your kitten to being groomed from an early age, particularly if it’s an extended coat. A long-haired cat needs daily attention to stay fur freed from tangles. Grooming removes excess loose hairs which may cause hairballs to create up within the stomach. Combing and brushing will help remove these hairs and it’s usually appreciated by the cat, provided it’s been familiar with grooming early in life. Grooming also allows you to stay an in-depth eye on your cat, assess its health and help to develop the bond between you. Always be gentle and make grooming a rewarding and pleasant experience.

How to groom your cat

Keeping your cat in healthiness 

A new kitten will need a health check-up shortly after arrival. This may give the veterinarian the chance to offer any vaccinations necessary and advise on flea treatment, worming, neutering, microchip identification, and other general care. Keeping your cat healthy

Helping adult cats to settle in

Preparation is the key to a relaxed introduction so you’ll have already got prepared for your home by purchasing all the required items, like litter tray, food, and water bowls, scratching post, and bedding. it’s advisable to stay a replacement cat indoors for a minimum of two to 3 weeks to make sure it becomes fully acclimatized to the new home and fewer likely to panic and stray in search of elsewhere more familiar.

This will be a potentially challenging time for an adult cat adopted from a rehoming center as a period of confinement often leaves them during a state of hysteria. The cat may retreat into a topographic point initially but is best left there as you set about your business to permit it to make a decision alone when it’s safe to explore. Cats will occasionally within the first few days (or weeks if they’re particularly shy) only eat and use their litter tray within the dead of night. The anxious cat may even fail to try to do either for the primary day. This is often a neighborhood of the method that’s best ignored by putting down fresh foods and checking the litter tray regularly and letting nature take its course. If things persist beyond this era then it might be known to consult a veterinarian.

The settling-in procedure for an adult cat is the same as that adopted for a kitten for the primary day or two. If the cat seems keen to explore the new environment then there’s no got to confine in one room only. it’s going to however be knowing to allow the cat to explore one room at a time. This is often the time to urge to understand the cat’s personality. Not all cats answer an equivalent quality of human contact so reading visual communication and appreciating signs of hysteria and stress (identifying and addressing the signs of stress) is useful to urge the utmost to enjoy the connection. If the cat becomes aggressive when approached this means that it’s scared or confusing and would like to satisfy you in its own time and on its terms. Patience is vital during the primary few weeks as some cats take several weeks to feel safe during a new home.

If you have already got a resident cat, don’t rush the introductions as this is often a really important step.

How to introduce a replacement adult cat to your resident cat

It is best to stay a replacement adult cat inside the house for about 2 weeks so that he bonds to his new territory before you let him go outside.